NAVC Polar Bear Expedition: Day 3

We woke this morning to a crisp, nose stinging -5C, with a -25C wind chill, ice covered streets, and a fresh blanket of snow. The café was approximately a quarter mile down wind - seemed like 10 miles on the return.

The motel was basic but comfortable. After the long day yesterday, and the catch up from the even longer travel day before, most of the group slept well and woke refreshed and excited, like children on Christmas morning - waiting to see what nature had in store.

The hearty breakfast filled our tanks for our first tundra buggy adventure. We boarded a bus for a 30-minute ride to the tundra buggy launch, about 19 km south of the city along the coast.

(Dr. Milton Ness modeling his tundra headgear. Dr. John Stephusen is in the background.)

There are 18 permitted tundra buggies in Churchill. These modified monster trucks are built from the frames of old fire trucks. Massive tires permit the vehicle to ride over mud, slush, and snow without danger to the tundra. In addition, they are tall enough that the bears are not able to reach the windows and endanger the passengers.

The normal tundra buggy holds 40 passengers. Our NAVC group chartered our own buggy. With only 21 on board (not including myself and Dr. Walton), each person got their own window for unobstructed viewing and photography. In addition, there is a large outdoor deck off the back of the buggy that observers are allowed to use for even better photo access to the tundra.

We were worried at first. When we landed in Churchill yesterday, it was above freezing and raining. The bus driver that picked us up at the airport said that there were very few bears, and those that were around were all muddy brown. Not exactly what one expects from a polar bear.

The forecast for today was rain and 70kt winds.We certainly got the wind. It was blowing at least 50kt when arrived out on the tundra. Fortunately, the temperature dropped overnight and instead of rain, we got horizontal snow.

It was approximately a 30 minute drive to the best bear sites. Dr. Diethelm won the prize for being the first to spot a bear - a lone male across a frozen pond - walking face first into the snowstorm. Even though it seemed like a speck on the horizon, the shutters on 23 cameras started firing, sounding like the paparazzi around the Hollywood red carpet.

40 minutes in, first bear. Good start.

(The first polar bear crossing the frozen, wind-whipped tundra.)

The tundra buggy has a heater which is really important, and necessary. However, as soon as a bear is spotted, all the windows in the buggy open and the winds howl through - instantly dropping the temperature inside the buggy to sub-zero. No worries.

A couple hours in, between bears, out came the tea, coffee, hot chocolate and something a little “extra” (Amarilla and Kahlua). Yum.

More bears. In fact, it was like a lesson out of the book “Arctic Wildlife.” Throughout the course of the day we logged 19 polar bears, ptarmigan, Arctic fox, Arctic hare, lemming, mergansers, ravens and glaucous gulls.

(An Arctic fox furtively darts about the willows.)

As the sun that teased us only once during the day started to set we crawled back to the tundra buggy base camp (these large vehicles go about 3 mph max). On the final stretch we got to see an amazing sight - an adult female with two yearling cubs.

(A mom and her two yearling cubs.)
 

We returned after the long day to another great local dinner and yet another segment of our lecture series. An overview of sled dog medicine, in preparation of tomorrow's sled dog experience, was presented. A special guest lecture was given by one of the attendees, Dr. Jocelynn Jacobs. Dr. Jacobs is a performance dog expert, a champion breeder, a musher and has published a book on performance dog nutrition.

(Young bear rolling in the snow. They do this for play, but also to help clean their fur)

General consensus - the trip is all and more than expected.

Tomorrow - a special experience. Weather permitting, the NAVC/Clinician's Brief will be sponsoring a polar bear release from the famous polar bear jail. Stay tuned...