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Visit Tipping the Iceberg-a daily blog from intrepid explorers. Drs.Doug Mader and Carol Walton and 28 colleagues share their expedition exploits aboard the Explorer II. While traversing the bottom of the world, the explorers will make entries that include breathtaking views; Zodiac rides to Antarctic shores, and walks among penguins. Come chill with us...parka is optional.
| TIPPING THE ICEBERG - a daily blog from intrepid explorers |
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Tipping the Iceberg
February 13, 2008
Day Zero
Where it all began. From the myopic viewpoint, you could say, "Well it began today."
But, that is a bit Reader's Digest.
In actuality, it began about 3 years ago - not the actual trip of course, but, the genesis of the concept.
The NAVC Board of Directors had a brainstorming session. How could we make the NAVC a better experience for the attendees? What can we do differently? Where do we see the NAVC in 5, 10, 20 years? What would be our goals?
Lots of fantastic ideas came forth. One in particular seemed lofty, and somewhat unrealistic. Colin Burrows, our Executive Director, stated matter of factly "I want the NAVC to offer Continuing Education on every continent."
Big goal - perhaps. But, not unreachable. The NAVC already had a presence in North America, Europe, Asia, Australia, and South America. Africa would surely follow. That pretty much left the South Pole.
I was at that meeting. I've always liked a challenge, and like Scott, Amundsen, Shackleton, and Byrd before me, I felt the draw to conquer Antarctica.
Dr. Ralph Barrett, past president of the NAVC, and then current Director of the Regional Institute, gave me the okay to investigate the possibility of sponsoring a CE course at the bottom of the world. I gathered some trip info, as did he.
What came about was a liaison with a Dr. Carol Walton, a veterinarian from Texas. She had established her own expedition company that sponsored trips to various unique places around the globe - amongst which were excursions to Antarctica.
After hundreds of e-mails and dozens of satellite phone calls, the concept had turned into reality.
So we begin. 29 intrepid souls from all over the country, from Alaska to Conch Republic, wearing the NAVC flag on our sleeves, head south, way south, to Antarctica. 21 met and departed from Atlanta this evening. We meet up with 8 more tomorrow in Buenos Aires for our flight to Ushuaia, Argentina where we will board the Explorer II, which for many of us will be the trip of a lifetime.
  (Left image) Several of the participants got a treat and slipped away to visit Georgia Aquarium prior to leaving for Antartica. Dr. Geraldine Diethelm, Dianne Massiello, and Dr. Kevin Fitzgerald stand in awe before the beauty of the jelly fish gliding by. (Right Image) The signature of the Georgia Aquarium, the Whale Shark, glides by overhead the underwater tunnel. [Photo by Dr. Steve Barten]
Tipping the Iceberg
February 14, 2008
Day One
Happy Valentine's Day!
Does a penguin celebrate Valentine's Day? Most penguins are seasonally monogamous, and they betroth their love for a single individual for the balance of each year. But, how do they actually know who that special penguin Valentine is? From the perspective of most humanoids, all penguins look alike. Considering the fact that some penguin colonies have greater than 200,000 members, if they gave a chocolate heart to the wrong mate, could you really fault them?
Getting back to the trip at hand...The bulk of the group left Atlanta last night. It was 35 degrees F with snow flurries. After 10 hours, aching backs, stiff necks, and sore butts, we landed in the beautiful city of Buenos Aires, Argentina, and a humid 80 degrees. All the luggage made it as well, so we gathered our belongings, boarded the bus, and traveled cross town to the domestic airport.
The city struck me as a beautiful, clean port town, with a mixture of modern architecture and historic dwellings. The community pride was evident as the streets were clean and graffiti, so common in larger cities, was not to be seen.
The Atlanta 21 met up with 7 additional travelers at the domestic airport. Just one more passenger to go to complete our manifest! The last of whom is to join us in Ushuaia tomorrow morning.
Wildlife viewing today was a bare minimum. Other than some stuffed or stone penguins and whales seen on the shelves of the gift shops at the airport, not a live critter was to be found, not even a lonely reptile.
After checking in at the Hotel Albatross, a large, still awake group (going on 48 hours without sleep), headed into town to sample local cuisine. We FEASTED on fresh flame-cooked lamb, fish right off the hook, and ample wine (not me - I was writing).
Tonight we sleep, for tomorrow, the real adventure begins...
 
(Left image) View of the city of Ushuaia, Argentina, as we approached on final. The snow covered Andes Mountains are in the background. Ushuaia is the southernmost city on the planet. (Right Image) Dr. Ann Terry, Dr. Joe Chiosi, and Dr. Charles and Kathy Muschany feast on flame-cooked lamb (see pit through the window) and fine spirits.
Tipping the Iceberg
February 15, 2008
Day Two
What a day!
Our expedition party, now complete with the joining to the group by Dr. Mary Guglick, made plans on shore for the forthcoming adventure. Breakfast came and went, our bags were packed and sent off to the ship, and we loaded up on a bus to explore the National Park at Tierra del Fuego.
We started out first thing with a 25 km trip to hike the trails of Bahia Lapataia, in the Parque Nacional. Our expert guide showed us several species of birds unique to the area. Most notable were the black chested buzzard eagle, the crested caracara, the chimango caracara, the upland goose, the ashy-headed goose, and the flightless thrasher. In addition, we saw multiple rabbits and a red fuegian fox.
Unfortunately, yet another day passed and we had yet to see a wild reptile (the alligator and sea turtles at the Georgia Aquarium don't count).
Following a great lunch at the Patagonia Mia restaurant, where we feasted on chicken, lasagna, and lamb, we headed back to Ushuaia to begin preparations for departing to Antarctica. We felt it was extremely necessary to consume as many calories as possible in preparation for our journey - meals on board, especially during the crossing of the Drake, have been known to be minimal, or oftentimes, quickly lost. We could not take any chances. As a result, several proactive members forced themselves to have seconds...
On the way to the ship the bus had to stop at port security. An officer boarded the bus and told us each to pick just ONE piece of carry on luggage. We were then taken into the security area and our one select piece of luggage was x-rayed. We then retrieved that single piece of luggage and returned to the bus to take the final 50 yard drive to the gangway.
Good thing I picked the bag without bombs, weapons, and drugs.
Shortly after we were escorted to our rooms to stow our baggage, we had to attend the mandatory safety meeting. The purser showed us how to don the life preservers in case the ship sinks. I am confident that the orange life vest will save me if we go down in 32 degree water...
So now, it is 12:15 AM, or in nautical talk, 00:15 hours. A mixture of ample food, some libations consumed by a few, and meclizine have caused most to cash in for the night. But never fear...Blog Man is here - no rest until I can satellite bounce a travel log entry a world away.
As of right now, things are calm. We have been to sea for approximately 5 hours. But, the Drake is just a few kilometers away...
   (Left image) Our guide gives us a lecture on the birds of Tierra del Fuego - the Land of Fire. (Center image) Dr. Ralph Barrett holds a small, red crayfish as several others snap photos. Mere moments later, Ralph was almost eaten alive by the crayfish's mother. Fortunately, no animals or humans were injured. (Right image) Welcome to Ushuaia, the southernmost city! Our ship, the Explorer II is in the background waiting to depart.
Tipping the Iceberg
February 16, 2008
Day Three
Aaaahhh, the Drake!
Never let it be said that veterinarians are not tough. With scant exception, the Drake has not taken any permanent casualties. A few noble NAVC explorers have gone down, but not for the count. Amazingly, they were all back for dinner.
We are at approximately the mid-point across the feared Drake Passage.
Many lives have perished trying to navigate these treacherous waters between latitudes 50 and 60. Our captain, Giovanni Biasutti, has expertly guided us through what would normally be a maritime hell.
(Off the record, the ship's crew told us that this is one of the easiest passages that they can remember. But, don't tell anyone that - okay? It does not sound nearly as dramatic.)
Once again, the day started out with food - lots of it. If the bountiful buffet was not enough, and the late morning tea and snacks did not fill you up, perhaps the German sausage and beer feast out on the deck did the trick. Small finger sandwiches covered the tables mid-afternoon. If that was not enough, this evening was the Captain's Welcome Gala. Formal wear was optional, but many of the Vet Explorers dressed to the nines.
After the five course meal, the wait staff served up the desserts - too numerous to count. But, the real show stopper came when the sun set around 10:30 and we all got to witness the elusive Green Flash.
Dr. Fitzgerald disputed the observation, stating that it was unequivocally a Key lime colored flash.
The morning was filled with excellent lectures. It started with an official NAVC introduction to the course with "Welcomes" from me (the Blog Master), Dr. Ralph Barrett, and Dr. Carol Walton.
Dr. Walton covered Birds of the Southern Ocean and Whales of Antarctica. Dr. Stephen Barten gave an excellent talk on digital photography and Dr. Carl Palazzolo discussed taking photographs in difficult light (like a black penguin standing on a white iceberg).
All total, there were 5 hours of talks.
Between lectures and food we actually got in some deck time. The weather did get a little rough with 20 knot winds, but between the clouds, the ship's naturalists helped point out and identify several species of pelagic birds. Today's life included wandering and black browed albatross, kelp geese, giant petrals, Wilson's storm petral, and the white chin petral.
Tomorrow is another full day at sea while we finish our crossing of the Drake. For me it has been a little disappointing as we have still not seen any reptiles. Oh well, every day is an adventure...
  
(Left image ) Attendees weather the tossing seas during the morning lectures. The higher the deck, the greater the ocean motion. The classroom is on the top deck! (Center image) Drs. Kevin Fitzgerald, Ralph Schoemann, Mary Guglick, Steve Barten, Gary Hermann, Diane Ecklund, and Paul Currie enjoy a Fruehschoppen, a sausage and beer festival on the aft deck. (Right image) The Green Flash - as close as you can get it on a photo.[Photo by Rick Beldegreen]
(This map illustrates the Explorer II's approximate location.)
Tipping the Iceberg
February 17, 2008
Day Four
We crossed into the Antarctic Circle early this morning. However, we are still in the Drake Passage. Nature has been kind - seas were calm and the weather was in the mid-50s all afternoon. Although the wind has started to pick up, it was very sunny. So much so, that sun block and polarized glasses were the order for the day.
Aside from the expected cast of feathered characters on stage today, we had guest appearances by a yellow-nosed albatross, a royal albatross, several prions (small, white birds that dart around the bow of the ship), two brown skuas, a gazillion pintados, and three separate rafts of rockhopper penguins swimming/porpoising by. The rockhoppers are the tuxedo birds with the bright yellow Rastafarian hairdo. These amazing little birds spend their first 4 years of life at sea, never venturing on to land.
Penguins swim by projecting themselves through the waves like torpedoes, or, if you will, a porpoise. They do this because it decreases their surface drag in the water and allows them to swim at much greater speeds. When a large group passes by, they are never all in the water at the same time. So, at any given moment, you see them, then you don't, then you do, etc. The result looks like a pan of popping corn, or to a veterinarian, a bunch of fleas hopping around the skin after a dog has taken a Capstar.
Today's veterinary lectures included Seals of Antarctica and Anatomy & Physiology of Cetaceans. Shipboard lectures (those given by the on-board naturalists) covered Geology of Antarctica Ice, Historical Perspective of Antarctic Discovery, and an overview of procedures for entering the pristine environment. ALL visitors to Antarctica must participate in this last class or they are not allowed to step on land.
As the last lecture was about to start, the ship was treated to an amazing experience. We entered a pod of humpback whales, TNTC (Too Numerous To Count in cytology terminology). The captain stopped the ship and the whales surrounded us. The giants breached, flipper slapped, tail fluked, and more. They put on a spectacular ballet for almost an hour, and then as if on cue, gracefully swam off. The animals were so close you could count the individual barnacles on their heads.
Although we have yet to see any reptiles, what we have experienced has been spectacular. Tomorrow is our first landing - and we have been promised that it will be monumental...
  
(Left image ) The gin-clear water gave a great view of the animals as they surfaced from the deep. The behemoth surfaced to take a breath just a few yards from the starboard bow. (Center image) This is a "fluke" shot. Aside from being spectacular, it is one of the most important images that a biologist uses to identify individual animals. Their flukes are as distinctive as a human fingerprint. (Right image) The animals were so close that you could count the individual barnacles on their heads!
Tipping the Iceberg
February 18, 2008
Day Five
How can it get any better? Every day has been amazing, each eclipsing the previous one. Today was surreal - unbelievable experiences.
We had our first taste of true Antarctic weather this morning. We awoke to brisk, nose- and ear-biting wind and flurries of horizontal snow. Our captain sailed into Deception Bay for our first landing.
Deception Bay got its name because for many years, whalers thought it was a complete island. As it turned out, it was actually a caldera, a volcanic crater. A very small portion of the outer wall had broken away way back in time, leaving a very narrow, but deep passage into the ocean-filled center. This volcanic rim and calm bay made for a refuge from the aggressive and unpredictable weather. Over time in a small bay within this caldera - a whaling station was built. Magnificent animals were slaughtered and the blubber was boiled down for oil. Years ago this station was abandoned, but many of the buildings, including a dirt airstrip and airplane hangar, still exist.
This snowstorm abated shortly after sunrise and we proceeded to make our first Zodiac landing. Marching across a black sand beach, a magnificent contrast to the snow covered mountains; we embarked on a 2 1/2 mile hike to the top of Neptune's Window for a panoramic view of the island. We passed fur seals and a few gentoos and chinstrap penguins along the way. In addition, we say a blue-eyed shag, several snowy sheath-bills, and many, many kelp gulls.
After the hike, most of the intrepid group took advantage of the rare opportunity to take an Antarctic swim! The water and air temperature was approximately 39.0F!
After lunch and several hot chocolates, the Explorer II motored to Half Moon Bay for a visit to a chinstrap penguin rookery. The weather was starting to turn again but we managed to hike the cliffs and photograph numerous chinstraps, a few gentoos, and several fur seals. Part of the group got to experience an amazing sight as two brown skuas (large carnivorous birds), the penguins' main predator, ganged up on a hen and chick, eventually taking and eating the baby. One of the non-veterinarians at the scene cried out "Do something, you're veterinarians!"
Between these incredible excursions we still managed to get in our CE. Today's lectures included Penguins & Other Shore Birds of Antarctica, Cetacean Medicine, and Medical Care of Penguins.
Tomorrow - another experience to be discovered. One thing for sure, NAVC will FINALLY set foot on the Antarctic continent...
   (Left image) Antarctic midnight. (Center image) Sunrise at Deception Island. Our ship passed through the Neptune's Bellows, a very narrow entrance to Deception Island, an extinct volcano. On our approach to anchorage we passed Neptune's Window just as the early morning sun inched over the horizon. (Right image) Our first stop was Whaler's Bay, an abandoned whaling station from the early 1900's. After a long hike, the NAVC fearless took in a quick dip before heading back to the ship. Left to right, Dr. Ralph Schoemann, Kathy Muschany, and Dr. Rick Beldegreen (swimming). The air and water temperature was a mere 39.0F!
   (Left image) A fur seal basks on a rock in the sparse mid-day sun. These seals were almost hunted to extinction. Now, their population is slowly coming back. (Center image) Two chinstrap penguins squabble over territory as two neighbors look on. (Right image) A lone fur seal sits on the beach overlooking Boyd's Strait. Growlers (mini icebergs floating by) and a glacier can be seen in the background.
(This map illustrates the location of Paradise Bay but does not depict the actual expedition route which was via Deception Island.)
Tipping the Iceberg
February 19 2008
Day Six
Remember what I said yesterday? "How can it get any better?" I would not have believed that the experiences on this trip would be a constant crescendo. EVERYBODY has been wandering around in a daze - Antarctica is an amazing, magical place. Incredible wildlife aside, Antarctica itself is so magnificent that words cannot describe the physical and emotional experience.
I need to try and pick a few photos to send the blog every day. How do I choose? To start with, I took 356 photos today. there are 29 others on this trip, all of whom are far better photographers. They all took hundreds of photos. How do I possibly select four or five to put on the blog?
During the nght after we left Deception Bay, we traveled south through the Gerlache Strait. An Antarctic storm hit with winds in the 40-50 mph range, the snow blew sideways and the waves turned into mountains separated by steep valleys.The channel was filled with icebergs, the Antarctic equivalent of an IED. As a result, the captain had to retract the motion stabilizers - meaning that the Explorer II had the roughest trip to date - far worse than the dreaded Drake.
We arrived at Neko Harbor, another site of a long since abandoned whaling factory. However, the harbor was so full of ice, and the weather was so angry, that we had to abandon the landing. No worries, we got in two more hours of lectures - Medical Care of Pinnepeds (seals) and Sea Turtle Bology & Medicine.
The captain kept heading south to Paradise Bay. By the time we got there the snowstorm had subsided to a gentle dusting and it was possible to drop the Zodiacs for a landing. The site was an abandoned Argentine research station, now only occupied by gentoo penguins, many species of shore birds, and an occasional leopard seal.
It was here that Veterinary Medicine and the NAVC made history!
Our group touched land on the Antarctic Peninsula (also know as the 7th continent) and became, officially, the first group to offer Veterinary CE in Antarctica!
After planting the NAVC flag high atop the hillside overlooking Paradise Bay, we took off in smaller groups in Zodiacs for an up-close look at the icebergs, birds, and seals. Many of the participants were treated to a spectacle known as calving. Now, to most veterinarians "calving" refers to a cow giving birth. For this group of 30 veterinarians, calving now has a new meaning. "Calving" refers to the geologic splitting of an iceberg or ice wall, where large slabs of the ice break away, crashing to the sea, producing giant waves. It was absolutely amazing as you could hear the ice crack moments before the slab fell, giving everyone ample time to turn and watch the spectacle!
There were several more "firsts" today: a leopard seal, a crab-eater seal, and Antarctic tern, and an extremely rare find, a lion-maned jellyfish - spotted by Dr. Gerry Diethelm.
After returning to the ship we sailed out of the harbor and headed south once again, this time through the Lemaire Channel. This channel is so narrow that the icebergs make it nearly impossible for a ship to pass.
The views of the cliffs were stunning. The sun set after 10:00 PM and everybody stayed on deck until we emerged through the limited passage, heading south to tomorrow's destination, called Petermann Island.
Although we did not see any reptiles, it did not dampen anyone's spirits. Tonight, the Vets are dancing.The ship has an excellent Philippino band that plays everything from Madonna to Southern Rock!
After an incredible day of expedition, they still have energy to party!
Tomorrow - well, we'll find out in about 10 hours...
 
(Left image) Dr. Joe Chiosi takes time out while waiting for his Zodiac to read his favorite Veterinary Journal. (Right image) We broke up into three smaller groups of 10 for Zodiac tours around the icebergs in Paradise Bay.
  
(Left image) The blue color of this iceberg is evident both above and below the water. (Center image) Swimming gentoo penguins. [Photo by Dr. Rick Beldegreen] (Right image) A very rare sighting of a lion-maned jellyfish. The whitish object in the foreground is a small chunk of ice. The jellyfish was approximately 3 feet across. [Photo by Dr. Rick Beldegreen]
Tipping the Iceberg
February 20, 2008
Day Seven
An early morning Zodiac call was the order today. At first light we anchored at Petermann Island, just below the Lemaire Channel. The Island has a long history as do many of the locations here in Antarctica, but for us this morning, it was the search for the Adele penguin that was our main goal.
The Adeles are one of only two true Antarctic penguins. The Adele and the emperor penguin, found on the other side of the continent, are the only penguins that actually live in Antarctica year round. Adeles are white, heavy-bodied birds with a totally black head. These penguins are the ones that have that typical "tuxedo" look. Jules Sebastian Cesar Dumont d'Urville, a French explorer named this region Adelie Land, after his wife Adelie. As a result, the penguins became known as the Adele penguins.
Giant leopard seals, gentoo penguins, and Adeles were seen all over.The gentoo chicks are going through their first molt at this time, giving them various punk rock "doos." On the island excursion, several members of the NAVC group got to witness two skuas attack and kill a gentoo chick. Nature can be harsh.
The weather quickly turned mean and a snowstorm blew in just as we were leaving. With wind chills, temperatures dropped below 0, and the winds kicked up to 25 knots. We all got back to the ship where we were immediately greeted by a staff member passing out hot chocolate.
During the postexcursion warm-up period we got in more lectures, this time on Veterinary Response in Oil Spills (very appropriate considering the recent sinking of a cruise ship in Antarctica after hitting an iceberg) and Veterinary Involvement in Cetacean Strandings.
The ship planned to have an outdoor barbeque on the pool deck, and true to form, no Antarctic snowstorm was going to put a damper on it! The rock-n-roll band was outside wearing gloves and parkas, barbeques were fired up serving ribs, shrimp, chicken, sausage, a large vat of hot cheese, and Kirsch prepared the fondue. For dessert, Bananas Foster. NAVC was dancing in Antarctica - Ellen DeGeneres would be proud!
Shortly after lunch the ocean got nasty. A large wave broadsided the ship knocking everything that was not fastened down across the ship, breaking glasses and scattering tabletops.The water got too rough so the afternoon landing was canceled, but the captain decided to take the ship further south. As a result, we all got a fantastic treat, traveling south to Prospect Point, at the 66 degree latitude line, on the Antarctic continent. Prospect Point was a British geological station that was abandoned in 1959. What made this so special was the fact that this landing marked the farthest south that this ship, the Explorer II, has ever traveled.
Still no reptiles. But at this point, I have pretty much stopped looking.
Another fantastic day. Tomorrow we turn around and start our jouney home, heading north back up the Lemaire Channel. We're not ready to end this dream...
  
(Left image) An Adele penguin on Petermann Island. Note the resemblance to the classic tuxedo bird. (Center image) Large blue iceberg - looking more like a piece of art rather than the potential menace to navigation that it is. (Right image) Two large brown skuas consume a gentoo penguin chick. [Photo by Geraldine Diethelm]
  
(Left image) Southern barbeque, Antarctica style - complete with winds, snow, and a rock-n-roll band! (Center image) Nancy and Lyle Williams posing next to the placard for the Prospect Point station at the 60 degree latitude line on the Antarctic continent. This is the farthest south this ship has ever traveled. (Right image) Cathy Cannely, Paul Currie, Dominic Cacioppo, and Joan Schoemann pose with the only polar bear (named Angel) seen in Antarctica.
(This map illustrates the Explorer II's approximate location.)
Tipping the Iceberg
February 21, 2008
Day Eight
Another rough night heading north in the Lemaire Channel took us to Pleneau Island first thing this morning. This island was charted circa 1903 and named after French Antarctic photographer Paul Pleneau. The intrepid NAVC Vets donned extra layers of clothing as we ventured out into the 40 knot winds and sub-zero temperatures, cruising the pristine waters and gigantic icebergs.
The trip was worth every chill and shiver! There are 4 seals found in Antarctica - the fur seal, the leopard seal, the Weddell seal, and the crab-eater seal. During the hour-long Zodiac cruise we saw all 4! On the way back to the ship, we spotted a disturbance in the water near the base of an iceberg, so our Zodiac driver, Dr. Carol Walton, careened around the icebergs and coursed the Zodiac to the spot. As we approached, approximately 20 feet off the bow, a 14 foot long leopard seal leapt out of the water, teeth firmly clamped on a blue-eyed shag, violently shaking it side to side, the way a dog shakes a stuffed toy. But this was no toy. The seal would breach, slam the bird down on the water in one direction, submerge, then leap out again, only to repeat the action on the opposite side.
It is amazing how you forget you are freezing when engrossed in such intense drama. We watched until we were forced to leave - or miss the ship. The images are forever in our minds (and stored in many digital cameras!).
Once again, the ship's dining staff made sure we were properly warmed.
A buffet lunch in the snow, out on the aft deck, featured a complete taco bar and HUGE pot of chili!
The afternoon was a bit low key compared to this past week's excursions. We took a Zodiac ride to Port Lockroy on Wienke Island. Port Lockroy was established as a British base in 1944, and closed down in 1962. Now, it is manned during the summer months and acts as the southernmost post office in the world, and as a historical site and museum. The building was surrounded by fledging gentoo chicks; all wanting to follow us home - looking for some yummy pre-digested fish.
After the visit to the museum we cruised by several glaciers and icebergs - no two alike - all original nature art. Just fantastic.
The day ended with a special treat. Dr. Kevin Fitzgerald, superstar of the Animal Planet network and comedian extraordinaire, and me, Blog Man, put on a magic (me) and comedy (Kevin) show. The 90 minute event was held in the private theatre for our group. The ship's crew was also invited and everybody had a hilarious and mystical time.
That's it for now. Still no reptiles, but, with everything else going on, I'm not too worried about it. We still have one day left here in this magical land...
   (Left image) This large crab-eater seal put on a great show for the NAVC crowd. Crab-eaters are the most numerous pinniped on earth. Even though their name suggests a diet of crabs, crab-eaters actually feast on a diet of krill. (Center image) An Antarctic tern carries a fish home for dinner. (Right image) This mature male Weddell seal basks on the iceberg, showing no concern for the snapping cameras.
  (Left image) Red ice algae highlights the sides of this ice cliff giving it a spectacular hue. (Right image) A leopard seal snags a blue-eyed shag from under the surface. The seal slams the bird on the surface repeatedly which serves to remove the skin and the feathers. [Photo by Dr. Steve Barten]
Tipping the Iceberg
February 22, 2008
Day Nine
Location - Culverville Island, Gerlache Strait
We awoke to yet another spectacular sunrise. The clouds had cleared overnight and the sun peaked over the frosted mountains at 6:44 am. The tops of the ranges on the west side of the Errera Channel burst into brilliant whites, back dropped by a cerulean sky. Shadows gave way to a black and white palette of snow-covered mountains accented by crevasses and giant rocky outcroppings. This is the purest air on earth. This, the magnificent dawn of our last day in Antarctica, was proving, once again, to be like no other.
Our early wake up call got us out in the Zodiacs to visit Culverville Island, home to numerous species of Antarctic birds, down south for their winter migration and breeding season, and of course, the plentiful gentoo penguins. Culverville island, discovered circa 1898, was once a site where extensive whaling occurred. Evidence of its rather tragic history was abundant, with heavy chains used for hauling carcasses up on the beach, old wooden ships (actually, parts thereof), and bones, giant whale bones, scattered all over, as prevalent as the rocks and pebbles on the black sand beach.
A short hike along the beach, and then up a gradual slope, took us to the top of a lookout where we could watch nature's light show play out. The gentoo chicks, gathered by the dozens in what is called a "creche," are fledging at this time of year. Their parents spend as little time as possible with them in an attempt to get the little penguins through weaning. Humans are NOT allowed to approach the penguin chicks, but, if THEY approach you, it is okay so long as you don't touch them.
While standing along the precipice watching the sunrise, dozens of chicks came over to the NAVC adventurers looking for surrogate parents (remember - in the penguin world, BOTH mom and dad share the responsibilities of child rearing). The pesky (but incredibly cute) little buggers would follow people around, cawing, head bobbing, and pecking at boots, wind pants, or to whatever they could latch! It was hard not to want to hide one away in your backpack to take home!
Although there are no reptiles in Antarctica, there are three species of bugs. Springtails, an almost microscopic arthropod, that essentially has a type of antifreeze for blood, was seen in several locations. The tiny black bugs over winter in a frozen state, only to emerge during the "warmer" Antarctic summer.
After the hike around the island, we loaded up, 10 per boat, into the Zodiacs to tour the icebergs. The area around Culverville Island is known as the Iceberg Graveyard, since the prevailing winds tend to push the ice into the area, and they can't migrate back out to the main channel. Even the world-famous Getty Museum can't hold a candle to nature's beautiful ice art.
One of the non-vet travelers slipped on the muddy slope and took a roll in the penguin guano. She had the Zodiac to herself on the way back. After all the adventurers returned to the ship, turned in their boots and life vests, and took showers (some needed them more than others), we bid a very sad and tearful goodbye to Antarctica terra firma. It was hard NOT to shed a tear as we pulled into the Gerlache Strait heading north to South America.
Tonight before dinner, Captain Giovanni announced over the ship intercom that all cabins on the "B Deck" (the lower deck) will be having their portholes fastened shut. A storm has been forecast to hit as we cross the Drake Channel. We are to expect the seas to grow angry around midnight.
The Drake is alive. It has its own personality. Man can only deal with what the Drake has to offer. It can be beautiful, it can be lethal. The Drake has a memory, and it did not go unnoticed that our passage south was smooth. A trip to-and-from Antarctica is not complete until you experience the power of the Drake...
As we pulled into the Gerlache Strait heading north to South America.
  
(Left image) This young, fledgling gentoo chick looks for a surrogate parent. (Center image) Drs. Kerry Levine and Dominic Capioppo toast a cold beer on the aft deck of the Explorer II as we pull away from the 7th continent. (Right image) Drs. Michelle Baccaro and Gary Hermann photograph humpback whales from the bridge deck as we course north up the Gerlache Strait.
Tipping the Iceberg
February 23, 2008
Day Ten
Location - Middle of the Drake Passage, heading due north to Ushuaia
Are you drunk, or are we crossing the Drake?
It is impossible to walk a straight line today. All halls and stairwells are lined with handrails, and today you have no choice but to use them. The winds are between 40-45 knots (over 50 mph) and the waves are kicking up to 20-25 feet. Several of the NAVC intrepid managed to make it to breakfast after a restless night, only to have the captain come up and tell us "If you are planning any lectures today, better get them done now - it is going to get a lot worse." There is a standing order to NOT go outside on any of the open decks as the conditions are too dangerous. Going to get worse - no worries!
So, we gathered the troops and finished our last official NAVC lecture this morning - The Effects of Long Line Fishing on the Albatross by Dr. Carol Walton. The ship has many experts on board, from naturalists to geologists to historians. Aside from the NAVC lectures, there were also lectures on The Plight of the Humpback Whale and Edward Wilson of the Antarctic. There is always something to do or learn.
It has been a bumpy but also a somewhat lazy day. With the exhilaration of the week, the early mornings, the late nights, and the bouncy seas, all combined with several pharmaceuticals such as Bonine, Dramamine, and others, the mood has been somnolent and the activity meter set in low gear.
Overcome by a post adventure high, psychologically induced ennui, most of the activity involved nap duty, sorting through photographs (mostly delete, delete, delete), and of course, eating. Breakfast, morning tea-time (with snacks), lunch, afternoon crepes, and tonight, the Captain's Farewell Dinner are the calorie offerings for the day.
I've been holding it off until now as a surprise, but, it's time to share with you that Dr. Steve Barten and I finally saw our first Antarctic reptile. Actually, we saw it a few days ago at Paradise Bay but I wanted to wait until the end of the trip to share it. It was the very, very, very rare Antarctic Ice Iguana. (Photo below)
It is a short blog today. Not too much to share unless you could get into the dreams of 30 adventurers. If you could, you would experience a magical place filled with awe, breathtaking landscapes, crisp air, crystal clear waters, amazing wildlife, and lots and lots of camaraderie.
NAVC has always been like a big family. We pride ourselves in offering the best in veterinary CE in a friendly atmosphere.
I don't think it can ever get any better than this...
Dr. Steve Barten (right) and me, Blog Man, photograph the extremely rare Antarctic Ice Iguana (iguana antarcticus) during a snowstorm at Paradise Bay. [Editor's note: although this photograph is amusing, it is totally and completely fake. Antarctic Ice Iguanas don't come out during a snowstorm]
 20-25 foot tall waves break over the bow of the Explorer II as the ship heads north through the Drake Passage.Winds are gusting between 40-50 mph! No one is allowed outside on the deck.
  
(Left image) The grand piano in the Shackleton's Bar is lightly fastened down during the storm. (Center image) Drs. Any Terry and Howard Mintzer try to relax in the lounge before dinner. Note the chain on the chair. (Right image) The crew has strategically placed barf bags along the handrails throughout the ship.
Tipping the Iceberg
February 24, 2008
Day Eleven
Location - Off the southern tip of South America, approaching Ushuaia
The dream comes to an end. But like all good dreams, we talk about them, share the stories with friends, and hope that someday we will relive the wonder.
Last night was the grand finale. The Drake did not let us down - actually, it did. It let us down, then up, then down, then sideways. Speaking to several of the crew this morning, the general consensus amongst the professionals was that last night was an "eight out of ten" on the Drake scale.
You can tell how bad it is by looking at the dining room. First, they close the dining room on the upper deck (more motion the higher up on a ship). Second, they replace the tall stemware with short, fat, heavy glasses.Third, they wet down the tablecloths to keep things from sliding. And last, when it is really bad, for those that can stomach a meal, they remove the tablecloths and replace them with elephant skin, a mesh-like padding with non-slip coating on both sides. Fortunately, we have not yet gotten that far.
Instead of the usual morning gathering where the expedition leader discussed what our destination would be, and what marvelous wildlife we would be viewing, our discussion centered around packing, departure protocols, disembarkation, and customs. It was a real bummer.
Afterwards, the cruise director asked if I would give a lecture to the general passengers - which I gladly obliged, talking to them about dolphins and whales and why they strand and what can be done to help them. The 40 or so brave souls in attendance seemed to enjoy the talk. In addition, the lecture was broadcast on closed-circuit TV into the staterooms (sounds like NAVC Primetime!) for those that did not have the stomach to make it to the main meeting hall.
We dock in Ushuaia first thing in the morning. Tomorrow we start the long trek back to reality. So, tonight, we pack. We'll tip back a few and swap some final stories in the South Cape Bar. Thirty people from all over the United States have come together to share an adventure. We have bonded, made new lifetime friends, and developed a whole new appreciation for our planet. It is certain that we now share at least two things in common - a belief in the NAVC as the best in the business for veterinary CE, and we are members of a select group of humans to ever step foot on the Antarctic continent. We say a collective goodbye to what all have stated has been the experience of a lifetime.
I think, that as the Blog Man, I can speak for my fellow travelers, that we all want to thank NAVC for this opportunity, we want to thank Dr. Carol Walton for being such a fantastic guide and treating us with such special care, and to Antarctica itself, for being such a spectacular host.
Also, thank you all for following along with us on this remarkable voyage. I hope that you have been able to experience even just a small amount of our fascination, looking at this dramatic new world through a child's eyes - everything was a first.
That said, let me end with this quote from Andrew Denton:
"If Antarctica were music, it would be Mozart. Art, it would be Michelangelo. Literature, and it would be Shakespeare. And yet it is something even greater; the only place on earth that is still as it should be. May we never tame it."
  (Left image) Dr. Diane Ecklund won the ship's raffle for a painted poster showing the route of our trip and the significant wildlife that we encountered. Dr. Kerry Levine helps display the prize. (Right image) All NAVC attendees received a Certificate of Antarctic Discoverers.
Dr. Ralph and Rhonda Barrett, me, and my favorite boss, Dr. Geraldine Diethelm-Mader, got a special invite to dine with Captain Giovanni Biasutti for the farewell dinner.
 Dr. Doug Mader, a 1986 graduate of the University of California-Davis, is the co-owner of the Marathon Veterinary Hospital, a referral practice in the Florida Keys. Dr. Mader is a Diplomate of the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners (Canine and Feline Practice) and a Fellow in the Royal Society of Medicine. Currently he is the consulting veterinarian for the Marathon Sea Turtle Hospital, the Monroe County Sheriff's Zoo, the Key West Aquarium, and the Theater of the Sea. Dr. Mader is an internationally acclaimed lecturer and is on the review boards of several scientific journals. He has published numerous articles in scientific veterinary journals and national magazines and is the author/editor of the Elsevier publication, Reptile Medicine and Surgery. Dr. Mader has been lecturing and instructing laboratories at the NAVC since 1987. He has served as the reptile program chair twice, and the exotics program coordinator prior to becoming a NAVC board member in 2005.
 Dr. Carol Walton has been leading natural history trips for more than 25 years. Having grown up in Panama, Dr. Walton gained an appreciation for the incredible diversity of life in a tropical rainforest. Her natural curiosity of the biological world led her to earn a bachelor's degree in zoology and a doctorate in veterinary medicine from Louisiana State University. After practicing veterinary medicine for 5 years, she followed her heart back to her passion of teaching people about the wonders of nature. In 1999, she started her own tour company, Carol Walton Expeditions, and now guides tour groups all over the world. In addition to teaching university level Tropical Ecology courses, she has participated in many scientific expeditions in the Amazon and has worked on Expedition Cruise ships for much of the past 8 years. She has lived and worked in Botswana and now spends several months each year guiding trips to various countries in Africa, such as Namibia, Zambia, Uganda, and Madagascar. She currently spends several months of each year working as a naturalist guide in Antarctica and guiding polar bear trips in the Arctic. |
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Michael Dryden
